Ingredient FAQ
Curious about the Ingredients?
Here you'll find key features of the ingredients used in my vegan bath & body products. Many of them have an extensive set of characteristics and history, but this page will focus on:
- Core Properties,
- Fatty Acid Profiles,
- Purpose in Formulation,
- Relevant Product Features
(Keep an eye out for upcoming blog posts discussing specific ingredients and why I choose them !)
Fatty Acids in Soap
-
Lauric Acid
Contributes to a fluffy/bubbly lather, hardness of the bar, and the cleansing properties of a soap.
- My scented soaps use Babassu Oil in lower quantities as the source of lauric acid, since too much can result in a soap that's too drying and can feel irritating to sensitive skin
-
Myristic Acid
Contributes to a bubbly lather, and the hardness of a soap bar.
- My unscented soaps use Tucuma Butter as the source of Myristic Acid. I use it in lower quantities, since too much can also result in a soap that's too drying, and potentially irritating to sensitive skin.
-
Palmitic Acid
Contributes to hardness of the bar, and a creamy & foamy lather.
- My soaps use hard butters like Kokum & Cocoa Butter as the source of palmitic acid, so they support a long-lasting bar with a foamy lather.
-
Stearic Acid
Contributes to hardness of the bar, and a creamy lather similar to Palmitic acid.
- My soaps focus on Mango Butter as the source of stearic acid, so the soap is also long-lasting bar with a creamy lather.
-
Oleic Acid
Contributes to the gentleness and creamy/mild cleanse of a soap.
- My soaps use Olive Oil as the primary source of oleic acid, so that I can ensure the soap is gentle on sensitive skin.
- Fun fact, since my soaps are high in oleic acid, the bar soaps need longer cure times to get harder!
-
Ricinoleic, Linoleic, & Linolenic Acids
Ricinoleic Acid (i.e. Castor Oil) assists in intensifying a bubbly lather when there's an ingredient already contributing Lauric and/or Myristic acid to the soap.
Linoleic & Linolenic Acids (i.e. Rice Bran Oil) both contribute to a gentle soap with a silky lather and creamy cleanse.
Base Oils
Argan Oil
Often referred to as "liquid gold," Argan Oil is a luxurious oil that's rich in oleic & linoleic fatty acids, vitamin E and antioxidants.
It's lightweight texture allows for quick absorption, and in hair care formulas, it's known for nourishing, locking in hydration, and promoting shine and manageability.
Argan oil is extracted from the kernels of the argan tree (Argania spinosa), native to Morocco.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 0
- Absorption Rate: Fast
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 10-15%
- Stearic: 4-7%
- Oleic: 43-50%
- Linoleic: 29-37%
Products Featuring Argan Oil:
Beard Oil, Beard Balm, Beard Butter
Babassu Oil
This lightweight and non-greasy oil, is a popular substitution for coconut oil in formulations, due to also being rich in lauric & myristic fatty acids, vitamin E, and its moisturizing, emollient, and conditioning properties.
In soap making, this oil is included for contributing to a soaps bubbly lather (Lauric & Myristic Acid) and hardness (Palmitic Acid) properties.
Babassu oil is a nourishing botanical oil extracted from the seeds of the babassu palm tree (Attalea speciosa) that's native to the Amazon rainforest regions of South America.
While botanically in the palm family, this is not palm oil, and not considered a tree nut.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 1-2
- Absorption Rate: Medium
Fatty Acid Profile
- Lauric: 40-48%
- Oleic: 10-15%
- Myristic: 15-20%
- Palmitic: 7-11%
Products Featuring Babassu Oil:
Scented Bar Soaps, Scented Liquid Soaps, Whipped Soap, Shave Soap
Castor Oil
Rich in ricinoleic fatty acid, in soap making, castor oil is used to stabilize the lather
This oil is slow absorbing, a bit thick and almost sticky in texture, but useful for its moisturizing, conditioning, and emollient effects.
Castor oil is obtained by pressing the seeds of the Castor plant (Ricinus communis).
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 1
- Absorption Rate: Slow
Fatty Acid Profile
- Ricinoleic: 85%-90%
- Linoleic: 4-5%
- Oleic: 3-4%
- Stearic: 1-2%
- Palmitic: 1-2%
Products Featuring Castor Oil
All Handmade soaps (scented & unscented), Lip Balm, Lotion Bar, and All Beard Care products,
Grapeseed Oil
Grapeseed oil is rich in linoleic & oleic fatty acids, vitamin E and antioxidants.
It's popular in the formulation world for absorbing easily into the skin, nourishing, and acting as a protective barrier.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 1
- Absorption Rate: Medium
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 5.5-11%
- Stearic: 3-6%
- Oleic: 12-28%
- Linoleic: 58-78%
Products Featuring Grapeseed Oil
Beard Oil, Beard Butter, Beard Balm
Jojoba Oil
Pronounced "hohoba", jojoba oil is not actually oil but a clear liquid wax, and is revered for its ability to mimic the skin's natural sebum (natural oils), ensuring effortless absorption
Jojoba Oil acts as a natural emollient, creating a barrier on the skin's surface that seals in moisture.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 2
- Absorption Rate: Medium/Slow
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 3%
- Oleic: 5-15%
Products Featuring Jojoba Oil:
Lip Balm, Lotion Bar, Beard Oil, Beard Balm
Olive Oil
High in vitamin E and oleic acid, Olive oil has been used as a cosmetic and soap ingredient for thousands of years, and is beloved by many soap makers.
In soap making, olive oil, helps to produce a gentle, low-cleansing, and creamy rich lather, which doesn’t strip the skin of it’s natural oil
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 2
- Absorption Rate: Medium/Slow
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 7.5-20%
- Stearic: .5-5%
- Oleic: 55-83%
- Linoleic: 3.5-21%
- Linolenic: 1.5%
Products Featuring Olive Oil:
All Handmade Soaps, Body Butters, Lip Balm, Lotion Bars
Rice Bran Oil
Rich in omega 6, antioxidants, vitamins, and fatty acids, rice bran oil is known for its moisturizing properties, and not leaving a greasy residue.
In soap making it's often used because it's high in oleic acid (which is useful for cold process), and often results in a nice smooth soap bar.
Rice bran oil ( Oryza Sativa ) is extracted from the bran or outer layer of rice grains.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 2
- Absorption Rate: Medium/Fast
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 22.7%
- Oleic: 43.9%
- Linoleic: 29.6%
- Linolenic: 1.25%
Products Featuring Rice Bran Oil:
All Handmade Soaps (Bar, Liquid, and Whipped), Beard Care, Bath Bombs, Shower Scrubs, and Sugar Scrubs
Sunflower Oli- High Oleic
Favored for its light texture, and for being rich in essential fatty acids such as oleic & linoleic acid.
In soap making, High Oleic Sunflower Oil is often used because its fatty acid profile is similar to olive oil
It absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy residue, making it suitable for most skin types.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 1
- Absorption Rate: Fast
Fatty Acid Profile
- Oleic Acid 14-43%
- Linoleic Acid 44-75%
Products Featuring Sunflower Oil:
Handmade Bar Soap (Scented, and some Unscented)
Cosmetic Butters
Cocoa Butter
A natural source of palmitic, stearic, and oleic acid, cocoa butter is a luxurious butter widely used in soap and cosmetic formulations.
It's fatty acid blend is useful for forming a protective barrier on the skin and locking in moisture, which helps to hydrate and nourish skin.
Cocoa Butter is derived from the seeds of the cacao tree (Theobroma cacao)
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 4
- Absorption Rate: Medium/Slow
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 25%
- Stearic: 37%
- Oleic: 34%
- Linoleic: 3%
Products Featuring Cocoa Butter
Bath Bombs, Scrub Bars, Bar Soap
Kokum Butter
Similar to cocoa butter, kokum butter is popular for supporting and preserving the skins moisture barrier.
It's scent as much lighter than cocoa butter, and is a bit softer since it's mostly stearic and oleic acid. However, it still can play a big role in the hardness of a soap bar.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 0-1
- Absorption Rate: Medium
Fatty Acid Profile
- Palmitic: 2-6%
- Stearic: 50-62%
- Linoleic: 0-2%
- Oleic: 30-42%
Products Featuring Kokum Butter
All Bar Soaps, Body Butters, Lotion Bars, Lip Balms, Bath Bombs, Scrub Bars, Beard Balm, & Beard Butter
Mango Butter
This is a luxurious butter popular in formulation, for its creamy texture, having a non-greasy finish (my personal favorite), and its very subtle aroma.
Mango butter is rich in stearic and oleic acid, along with vitamins A & E. Making it perfect for soaps, and body products that prioritize fortifying the skin's natural moisture barrier, while also being lightweight.
Mango butter is extracted from mango seeds.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 2
- Absorption Rate: Medium/Slow
Fatty Acid Profile
- Oleic: 45%
- Stearic Acid 44%
- Palmitic Acid 6%
Products Featuring Mango Butter
All Bar Soaps, Liquid Soaps, Whipped Soap, Body Butters, Lip Balm, Lotion Bar, Beard Balm & Beard Butter
Tucuma Butter
Having a slightly sweet scent, this hard butter is a personal favorite to use in my unscented soaps since its rich in myristic acid, oleic acid, AND palmitic acid.
Making it perfect for coconut free soap that is gentle, long-lasting, and also has a bubbly lather.
It is a rich and nourishing butter with a firm texture that, similar to other cosmetic butters, forms a protective barrier on the skin's surface to lock in moisture.
Properties
- Comedogenic Rating: 0-1
- Absorption Rating: Medium/Slow
Fatty Acid Profile
- Myristic: 53%
- Lauric: 19%
- Palmitic: 6.9%
Products Featuring Tucuma Butter
Unscented Bar Soaps, Unscented Whipped Soap
Additional Questions?
Have a question that wasn't addressed?
Contact me and I'll do my best to answer your question, or direct you to a good resource!